#2: Golling, Austria

From Salzburg we pedaled to Golling an der Salzach. It was about 40 km of easy cycling along the river, which was a good thing, since I was feeling wiped out by pollen allergies and the start of a head cold.

Golling is a typical Austrian mountain town--nothing glamorous--but still quaint and picturesque. As soon as we got into town we stopped at the local tourist info office to ask about accommodations. One thing that made this trip so relaxing was cycling in the off-season. There were almost no other cyclists on the radweg (or any other tourists), so we didn't need to reserve rooms in advance. We could stop and crash wherever and whenever we felt like it.

We found a room for 85 euros (including breakfast) on the main drag of town, on the third floor above an ice cream/patisserie shop ("konditorei"). The family who owned the shop lived on the second floor and let us store our bikes inside in the old section of the restaurant.

After unpacking, I collapsed on the bed, and told Markus I only had enough energy to down a beer and some food. While I nursed my sniffles, Markus went out to the local apotheke (pharmacy) to find cold/allergy medicines.

Austria, like Germany, is a great place to get sick. All the pharmacies have an extensive selection natural remedies and well-trained specialists who know everything about them. So, after answering a zillion detailed questions about the specific nature of my symptoms, he came back with the goods.

Note the company name on the back of the medication--Klosterfrau ("Cloister woman"). The company was founded in 1826 by a German nun, Sister Maria Clementine Martin. Her original flagship product was a nerve tonic, which she refined by distilling 12 medicinal plants, including lemon balm, gentian, cardamom, cinnamon and ginger, in a solution of 70% alcohol. (Being in a cloister didn't prevent you from getting your nips in, apparently.)

According to the company web site,  the tonic helps to "improve general well-being (strengthening or fortifying) where nervous and circulatory stress causes inner disquiet and nervousness. To combat insomnia. For weather sensitivity. To improve well-being when unwell, to stimulate gastrointestinal function, particularly where there is a tendency to feel full or bloated. As a mild medicine to improve well-being in uncomplicated colds and for general strengthening."

You can even rub it on your skin "to support blood circulation in the skin, e.g. for sore and tense muscles"!

It's been around for almost 200 years--and many Germans still swear by this tonic today. (Although at 70 proof, best to mix it with water, as many do!😉)